Sunday, April 7, 2013

Time To Say Goodbye





Ending my first extended stay in another country is oh, so bittersweet. I have loved just about every minute of every day which has offered so many new experiences and new friends. However, it is time to come home to my friends and family, who have generously offered their support and love to their "crazy" friend who seems to choose the less traveled path more often than not lately.

A few goodbyes...


Goodbye to the Nek Chand Rock Garden, a magical place created by a folk artist, who is also an architect, construction expert, horticulturist, community leader, venue manager and oh, so much more talented than anyone realizes except the few who spend time with him day and night.


Goodbye to our archival project. We have made an excellent start and now are planning a second trip in November to finish the project. 




Anyone who may be interested in a really cheap, incredibly meaningful, kinda primitive vacation, volunteer experience and introduction to a world you never dreamed about, drop me a line. 

Ram Raj, our daily chai partner and the garden man who
looked after us the entire time.
Goodbye to the people of the garden, the steadfast workers, many of whom have been there 30 years or more, watching and protecting the physical premises day after day, six days a week.


Goodbye to the volunteers, who taught me how to mosaic under pressure and who were wonderful traveling and dinner companions each night.





Goodbye to Alan, my partner in crime on this new journey. Without his incredible organizational abilities and steadfast belief in our mission, we never would have been able to even begin the process.

Goodbye to India, a world you have to live in to understand and come to love. 

Goodbye to wavering electricity, water hoses next to toilets, slow Internet, little auto rickshaws that start like lawn mowers and take you everywhere, unrecognizable food, luscious silks, beautiful women in multi-colored saris, stray dogs, 

bulls in the street, bobble heads and everything else that makes 

this a  carnival dream at best and a labyrinth nightmare at worst.

If this trip is the ying, then coming home is the yang. Hello America, I am coming home. I can't wait .....




I can't wait to hug my daughters, Michelle and Cara, and have a phone conversation where I can actually hear them.

I can't wait for a hamburger - a juicy, cow burger, made with sirloin steak meat just dripping with wet juices that I can see and recognize....bun optional.


I can't wait to hug my dog Zoey, and sleep in my own bed and shower in an American shower and sit on an American toilet.

I can't wait to thank Linda Evans for keeping my world going while I was gone and for all the kind people who offered their assistance during this trip.

I can't wait to begin painting and drawing and working on art that reflects the sights, smells and thinking of India for a solo show in October at the Atelier. I miss my art-mates and art friends and can't wait to hear all about their activities as well. 

I can't wait to see friends and family who have followed the journey and who still care about me even though I haven't been around for their lives the last six weeks.

Most of all, I can't wait to kiss the ground of the USA. I appreciate more than ever, the peace, the beauty, the tranquility of life in America, and look forward to holding that gratitude next to my heart for a long time to come.

Thanks all for being my companion on this journey. Cya soon! Huggs.....xxxoxoxoxoxoxox....j

Saturday, March 30, 2013

What Do You Mean It Is A Fuse

 

A light flickers then they all go out. Then they come back on, then they all go out again. And you wonder why? Now I know.


No worries about electricity in most houses - this is all you
have to cook with

 I was walking through the electrical parts section of the city and this is what I saw. Is it any wonder Chandigarh, and India in general has problems with electrical currents?

I won't miss cooking on an old hot plate with an old pot without a handle. I am looking forward to getting back to a decent kitchen again.

I've long gone through all the freeze-dried food and protein bars. Now we are down to a last pack or two of jelly beans and chewing gum.

Our latest visitor- a highly poisonous snake according to the nearby caretaker. Quite frankly, I don't want to know how toxic this snake is.








A small box on a tile wall for puga, or worshipping an idol with flowers, lit candles
and small sacrifices of food. 
Life Goes Back to Normal 
No trip is complete with out at least one plumbers butt!

The local baker was not exempt from Holi. He stands in front of sweets made just for the holiday that are
shaped like some of our Sephardic foods but taste like Greek baklava.

I don't think there is an open container law in India. This guy tried to sell it to me literally from his motorcycle. No thanks,
I don't like to drink and auto rickshaw.




Wednesday, March 27, 2013

The Color Whore at the HOLI Color War

Caught this man as he was exhaling a cigarette- 
Ask anyone who knows my art, and they should know how much I love bright, pure, saturated hues. Generally, sophisticated artists consider it a juvenile palette as an artist, and I know it, but I can't help it. Bright, jewel tones and rich reds and violets just get me all excited inside and inspire me to make art.

I have learned to tone down my personal wardrobe and to buy fancy clothes in sophisticated earth tones, too, but at heart, I am still a kid and love rich color. 

If I were my own analyst, I would immediately deduce that is why I love folk art and outsider art as I do...it plays right into my belief that art is a primitive drive and the less trained it is, the more one can trust it is an authentic snapshot of the soul. And that is one reason I love to return to India time and time again....its colors.


Don't know what she was trying to say, but I got hit
about a second later with two water balloons dropped from the balcony above!
So give me a national holiday that celebrates color, and it is like having a life-time supply of your favorite chocolate.  I just went bananas today during the second biggest holiday in India, HOLI. 




























All I did was drive around for the past two days and get squirted with assault-rifles, water guns and balloons filled with color, and then get it smeared on my face, arms and shirt by squealing and laughing children and adults. 

As a white foreigner, traveling alone I might add, I was a perfect target for the street kids.....it was ok, though, cause I knew it was coming! 

What a rush the few days before HOLI. Every retailer sells little packets of color for the equivalent of .40 to.50 a packet, and some want only the natural powders, since some of the metallic colors have mica or toxic chemicals in them.

Some powders are for mixing with water and some are for throwing dry!


So you must get a water gun, preferably an assault rifle if you are a boy, 14 or under. They have at least two spouts and mind you, the streams can reach right into the open rickshaw or auto rickshaw and totally soak an unsuspecting passenger, at which times the boys have disappeared into the doorway or up the stairs, knowing the quick getaway routes.


The next way you know HOLI is coming is that you see folks buying  fire wood and logs in the markets and then you see these cone shaped bonfires-to-be right in the middle of the road all wrapped in tinsel and some powdered with color.

They light these fires - some last night, some tonight, to drive the spirit Holika away. She was the evil sister of an evil demon named Hiranyakashipu - I just call him Hiranny. The rite is called the Burning of Holika and by the looks of it, the local fire department calls is Hell Night, cause those bonfires are awfully close to dry wooden structures and there were some pretty tight clearances.



The rule of thumb is that HOLI runs until about 4pm, when the majority of conservative, experienced adults need to get out of the house finally after a day of staying inside. In three trips to India, I have never seen an Indian street so deserted of cars and honking. I actually could ride around without fearing for my life.

 
The rule I assume is that if you don't want to play HOLI, don't come outside, and they do call it "playing HOLI."

Even the local snake charmer plays HOLI with his snake!

HOLI is for everyone, rich or poor, light or dark, driver or driven. It is the official end of winter and tells of the coming of summer. In a land of harsh contrasts, it is the one day everyone is free to be with family and to enjoy merriment and celebration with one another as brother and sister.

Holy Sikh Warrior on the streets taking his chances.








So today, there was a color whore at the HOLI color war, with water pistol in hand ready to play HOLI, and it was a fabulous day to be alive!!




Saturday, March 23, 2013

We Make The Hindi Times!



(L-R) Christine Styles, Nek Chand Foundation
trustee and widow of Tony Rajer with daughters,
Victoria and Sarah Davitt
About six months ago, I met with Christine Styles, the widow of Anthony (Tony) Rajer, Nek Chand Foundation trustee, and vocal advocate for the preservation of the Rock Garden, to discuss whether or not 
I was a good candidate for the international volunteer program.

Two things she said stuck in my mind. The first was that the program was a little like camping, and the second was that in addition to mosaic making, there was also the need to go through all the items in Nek Chand’s office and archive all the gifts, awards and other items.

Nek Chand holding the oil portrait I painted for him prior to coming to the Rock Garden

Hey, who took my bread?
I ignored the camping comment, though it did come to haunt me later on when I realized I could have benefited from a few ropes, hooks and other rappelling equipment for climbing and walking up, over and on 12 ft walls after drinking a little too much cheap Scotch whisky, 


Poisonous snake in our bedroom
as well as field guide to wild animals, reptiles and insects of North India, though that is for another story.


What I did think about over and over again was going through the stuff in Nek Chand’s office. From a very middle aged, selfish and lazy point of view, I kidded with my friends in the states that if I couldn’t hack doing mosaics, I would find my way to a desk job for four weeks to avoid having to do any real work.

Boy did I get that one wrong.

Learning to cut tiles the easy way by
banging on them hard
In retrospect, it would have been much easier to sit with a little cement placing tile after tile around a cement column in a random design, taking regular breaks for the fresh squeezed orange, pineapple or pomegranate juice or the fresh little Indian snacks that seem to me like little baked dough balls with spicy vegetable mash inside them.





(L-R) Adam gets a lesson on how to apply cement

(Not that doing mosaics is easy work. It is darn hard work. You have to sift the dirt, mix the cement and then rotate your body in positions that the yoga gurus would never approve of. You have to reach spots your body was never meant naturally to reach to slap on some cement that may or may not stick a small tile to a cement column, in a pre-determined pattern that should have been designed while I was being a slacker.

And the real shock (if you have never actually done a mosaic on a column or exterior or large surface before) is how long it takes to actually fill up the space! Now, I work slow, but it took me three days at four hours each day to finish about 12” up and totally around the column. (The rest of the time I was drinking juice, having chai tea, eating dough balls or having my picture taken as a celebrity white person who they want to photograph and talk to because you are such a novelty.) 

I watched my companion volunteers toil away, committed to learning the craft and completing a column.

I realized early on at the rate I worked, it would take about three months, which would put me into the summer season at 120 Fahrenheit, at which temperature I melt.  My two daughters would be very distressed to learn I actually melted in the Rock Garden and no trace was found of their mother. All that would be left would be a few random t-shirts and stretch pants from Goodwill,  20 bottles of iodine tablets that I never opened and a few packets of freeze-dried eggs and ham, which even the monkeys refused to touch.

John Maizels and Nek Chand at press conference for unveiling of Tony Rajer's memorial sculpture
(What I didn’t realize is that I was trading the frying pan (literally) for the fire. But really, I have to credit John Maizels, the other Nek Chan Foundation trustee and founder of Raw Vision magazine, and the world bible to art brut and outsider art, for throwing me into the fire. 

At the end of a hard days work - tired but happy
One night at dinner he asked if I would help Alan,  this filmmaker from the UK with a broken foot, since he knew I was a photographer. That is actually how I ended up doing something that I will remember for the rest of my life as a highlight and pinnacle of my short and mostly insignificant time on earth. Like you read all the time and never believe – things happen when you least expect them.
Alan arranging items for photography in our outside studio
The next thing I knew, Alan and I were setting up a makeshift photography studio in the stone courtyard of Nek Chand’s office,  trying to remove and clean pictures and enlarged photographs of Nek Chand with international dignitaries to take a digital record of them. 

Lokrum packing up items we removed from the office
Alan and I would take them out of the office and Lokram, Nek Chand’s gatekeeper for years and years watched us in disbelief. No one had touched that office since 1978 when it was built. There is such tremendous respect and awe for this world renown artist, that no one would dare make the decision to remove an item without his express consent...that is until the crazy American woman and the anal retentive filmmaker showed up.

Literally, every piece of mail, photograph, letter, request, award or document since 1978 sat in a pile or paper bag behind, next to, around or under Nek Chand’s chair.

 The valuable documents were interspersed with newspapers, magazines, utensils, bags of chick peas, rat droppings, and bits of rope, fabric plastic containers, old electronics or anything else that was given to Nek Chand or brought to the office that might one day become a valuable part of a Nek Chand sculpture.

After two days of taking a few things out and having Lokrum put them back, we had a Mexican standoff. I started to remove a black cloth from a fabric sculpture and Lokrum started to wave his hands in the air and walk in fast circles shaking his head as he spoke to us in Hindi, probably with expletives about how westerners never understand their culture and how much he couldn’t wait to retire and move to Florida to a small condo on the beach. All I know is that after that scene, we never saw him again. I heard he had blown out his knee, but I am betting he took the first flight to Palm Beach and sold a few Nek Chand sculptures to pay for a flat and a fishing pole.

(L-R) Helper, Alan, me and Nek Chand's current assistant
 after a day of sorting and trashing 
I say it with sincerity that I regret wholeheartedly if there was a connection between our arrival and his departure, though it wouldn’t be the first time I have seen people run when they saw me coming to get a job done. 

The next day, without Lokrum, Alan and I agreed we needed some help to communicate to Nek Chand so he could instruct his staff to be cooperative. With help from Sarah, who speaks Hindi (again Sarah to the rescue) and John Maizels, we got approval from Nek Chand to remove everything we wanted from his office, as long as we put it back again. (Right...just try putting a sleeping bag into its original bag!)

The next morning, three helpers, and I, filled up the courtyard with what looked like piles of trash, but were actually, invaluable maps, architectural drawings, city memos, award letters, fabrics, etc. until there was no place to walk. And that was only 25 percent of the office. 

Alan came in a little later that day and I could see from the look on his usually unflappable demeanor, a slight expression of astonishment and terror at the devastation I had caused in about 90 minutes, while he was across the street buying basically a potato knish with hot sauce from a street vendor.

And that is when we really knew we were in for a prolonged period of very hard work to sort, clean and box what looked important so it could be put aside to be sorted again by subject and date so that one day, there would be an organized, digital record of what how Nek Chan achieved the development and near completion of his remarkable Rock Garden. The temperature in the courtyard was often over 100 degrees Fahrenheit and sometimes exceeded 120 degrees in the sun, so it was terribly hot as well. 

And that is what we are still working on today. We have completed cleaning out all the bags and boxes that we are aware of in his office, and initially sorted trash from what could be important. We have set all the pictures and awards back in his office and are now going through flat documents.

The article in the Hindi daily paper about our archival process with photos of yours truly and Alan looking at a portfolio album we found with Indian stamps inside.
We have found half rat eaten architectural plans hand written by Nek Chand as well as speeches and documents from the city outlining additional plans that have not yet come to fruition. We have reviewed photographs of hundreds of well wishers, volunteers, visitors to the park, other artists and dignitaries who have visited the park and had their picture taken with him. There are speeches, awards, marketing brochures, interviews and gifts of art from adoring fans and well known artists from around the world. All of it now has a place back in his office or will have a place in a box with a subject name by the time we are done.

There is no way we can complete such a monumental task as archiving a 30-year plus history of anything in three-to-four weeks by two amateur archivists. And there must be a discussion about where the archives will be stored for their protection and access. 

Three of the hundred of river rock sculptures at the park
But for now, we have begun a process to protect and document the lifelong passion of a man started by being drawn to the mystical shape of a river rock,. He chose to carry that river rock by bicycle to a safe, secret place and began to build a world around it to honor its creation. 

Ultimately he graced that location with an entire world of river rocks, sculptures and architecture that the world cherishes and enjoys today and hopefully will be able to do so forever.

Detail of the miniature version of village where Nek Chand grew up in
what is now Pakistan and said to be a major inspiration
in the creation of the garden.uu
The least we can do is honor the man by documenting and protecting what inspired and motivated him to continue his journey for so many years and in the face of such obstacles achieved such greatness to become one of the world's most recognized visionary folk artists.

Next....a look at the many faces and shapes of the more than 2000 park sculptures....

j