Who Needs Electricity or Hot Water?

   I am writing this post from an Internet cafe on the third floor of their premier retail shopping mall which you see pictured above. Called Sector 17, it is where Indians find the top shopping brands to buy. From an American perspective, it looks like a strip mall south of Marietta Street in downtown Atlanta. It does have stores selling top brands, however, outside the stores are teenage boys hawking the usual fake brand sunglasses and street peddlers who lay out Indian bracelets and jewelry on blankets to sell to unsuspecting tourists or passersby. It is what I call typical India.



I arrived finally in Chandigarh yesterday around noon after almost three days of traveling. I spent almost 24 hrs in the Delhi airport, which was more than I had planned since my morning flight to Chandigarh was cancelled. Of course there were no more available flights, so I had to book a later flight on another airline in first class. I am grateful, though, because it gave me an opportunity to actually have a hot shower at one of these nap-and-go places in the airport. For $20, you get a semi-private leather chair with a foot stool in a quiet space, newspapers, coffee or tea, and a hot shower. You can also get a massage, but since it was in a public area where everyone could see you, I passed on the massage..

It is a good thing I had the shower, since there is no water or electricity at the guest house of the rock garden yet. First they tried to tell me there was a strike, but they couldn't explain why the rest of the park lights were on. Turns out that in typical Indian style, no one at the park knew some of us were arriving yesterday. In fact, I don't actually think Nek Chand knew that the volunteer program was happening...a little disconcerting to say the least, but hey, this is India.

It turns out that the coordinator of the program, a fella from the UK, doesn't arrive until tonight, which is fine with me, cause it gave me time to come into the city and get some things organized. Thank goodness also that I had some dehydrated granola and blueberries in milk that I brought with me, cause otherwise I would not have had breakfast, and you know how I hate to miss a meal.



Anyway, I arrived and immediately was ushered in with three others to meet Nek Chand, the 87 year old founder and leader of the garden. He is about 5'6, with wisps of white hair against a beautifully bronzed, aged skin. He was wearing a soiled formal suit with socks and no shoes and a stained knit tan vest that he wears in most photos. I wonder if he ever takes it off to wash. \His office is in what feels like an underground grotto, with small stones embedded in a rounded bunker-type construction.

Seated in a chair, around him are piles and piles of newspapers, unopened mail, hanging photographs, awards wrapped in plastic, plastic tubs, life-sized fabric statues draped in sari's, and other memorabilia going back to the founding of the garden. Clearly, he likes his chair and his little man-cave just the way it is.

We sat and looked at one another for at least 30 seconds and then Chris Style, the acting founder of the foundation that is sponsoring our program, spoke. It was clear he wasn't sure who she was, which I took in with some concern, but hey, I am already here. What am I going to do.

Thankfully, one of Chris's daughters, Sarah, spoke Hindi, and Nek Chand seemed to recognize her. We stared at each other a little longer, all getting our bearings, and then I presented the oil portrait I did. He took a long look at it and set it face down on one of the piles of newspapers behind him. Oh well.

Chris explained why we were there and I understood fairly quickly they had not prepared our accommodations for us. There was some rapid talk in Hindi to some helpers and then we were ushered out to visit the park, which I will cover in another post.

So there was no electricity, no water and no food ready for our arrival. No problem. Chris and one of her daughters is staying at a local hotel, so I went with them to have a meal there. As I expected, more spicy brown goop with meat over white rice, so I just ate the nan or bread and then some sweet dessert made of lentils.


We went back to the garden, and since there were no lights, we had to walk in the dark on a narrow ledge of a 12-ft wall around the perimeter of the garden to reach our guest house, which is at the back of the property. I admit I was a little freaked out when I had to walk on this ledge, but I just stayed cool and tried not to look down.

the "cottage" of the caretaker family 

Actually, I found out it is illegal to have people living on the property, so the taxi drivers keep trying to take us to the property next door, but after some arguing, they finally let us out of the car. There is a locked gate, so we had to arrange to have one of the other families who lives on the property to be there at a specific time to let us in.

First thing I did this morning was to find an alternate way into the garden if we get locked out. There is a natural buffer of undeveloped property next to the edge of the garden, and I found what looks like an animal/human path that leads to a break in the fence. No way I am going to not have a way to get to my bed at night. The garden is locked at 6pm.

My new home for 4 weeks

So, last night, I just pulled out my sleeping bag and hit the bed, not caring about anything else. It was my first night in a bed since Sunday night, so I went right out. It was not an easy night of sleep though. Some animal, that sounded like a crying baby, and birds, woke me up several times in the middle of the night. Clearly nocturnal, they were gone by daylight.

Chris suggested I pick up trash at the park today, since I am clearly the first to arrive for a program that was supposed to start Monday. I decided I would go into town to get myself organized instead, which brings me to right now, give or take a few stories.

Having been to third-world countries before, none of this surprises me. I did buy a local telephone today, but  I still have to find someone with a local number to vouch for me before they will activate it. I still do not have local Internet, but coming to the Internet cafe will be fine for the interim.

Well, this is long enough to take your time, and I will write again soon about my impressions of the garden. I am a tad overwhelmed by its immensity and complexity at the moment. As far as the mosaic side of things, I have seen what other volunteers have completed and I am in awe. I will post pictures once I get the technology resolved.

Called Sound Proof Hall (haha), we have two rooms, a non working kitchen, great balcony and privacy

I am doing great and am appreciative of anyone who has an interest in this story. Please let me know you are out there reading, since I am in this adventure alone for the time being. If you want me to explain or elaborate on something, let me know.

j